The only thing that takes them out is to repolish with Wenol. I tried rubbing the cloudy spots out with the POR-15 solvent and also tried acetone.
I am begining to wonder if there is some incompatability between the AP120 and the Wenol. as per instructions and then hosed it off and dryed it with a clean towel. I have kept the piece wet with cleaner for exactly 2 min. There are also some areas that look like water spots. However, when I spray it with the AP120 cleaner and dry it, I have cloudy spots on the metal. I have my aluminum console cover polished with Wenol to the point that I could easily use it to shave with. Well, I purchased the GlistenPC clear coat system along with the AP120 cleaner and solvent.
Por 15 pellucid clear coat full#
After applying Glisten, leave it to dry for 3-4 days - whilst it is touch-dry in an hour or so, full mechanical strength takes a few days. Thoroughly clean with AP-120, hose off & let dry completely. The most important things for Glisten are : I finished my side window frames (MkIII swing-outs with fixed quarter-panes) the other day - I used the Glisten with 10% Solvent & you would swear that it was a spray job. If you need longer to come back to the starting point, I have found that about 10% POR Solvent, mixed into the Glisten, will vastly improve the self-levelling - overall, and particularly if you are coming back to to an edge that is more than a minute or so old.
On the "self-levelling" issue, I have found Glisten to be almost perfect on a "wet edge" application - as long as you are brushing back into an edge that is no older than about 1 min, it all levels out. If you polish the surface & then clean it with POR's AP-120, you will not lose any of the lustre of the original polished surface. Lynn, If you want serious durability, I would still go with the POR-15 "Glisten" 2-pack.
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